Madrid and Segovia

So, we arrived in Madrid late in the evening and then queued for over an hour to arrange our tickets to Barcelona. They really don´t get queuing in Spain. So, to make it fair in the stations they have a number system. Of course this only works if those serving pay attention to it and not the loudest and most persistent person in front of them. Anyway that and the heat in Cordoba just about finished us off. We found our hostal and flaked out in front of the football. Wandering around Madrid we were struck by its youth - much younger than roman Cordoba etc. Surprising that it is the capital. It feels like it would be a better place to live than to visit. We wandered all day on Saturday, found a market and bought provisions, found a nice park for lunch and then went to the Reine Sophia gallery in the evening and saw Guernica and assorted Dali´s, Miro´s and Picasso´s. Then out into the teeming streets to find tapas and cañas - tiny little beers. Madrid is packed on a Saturday night, especially Plaza Santa Ana which was just near our hostal, with everyone from locals to American tour groups and English bucks nights. Sunday we explored the beautiful old botanical gardens and then the lovely park just next to the Prado. Lazed around reading and people watching until the free session at the Prado where we were very impressed by the el Greco´s and lots else besides. They also had a really interesting exhibition on renaissance portraiture. Some excellent Tapas and cañas rounded off a very nice day indeed - especially the grilled asparagus.

Segovia, an hour and a bit on a bus from Madrid, is a stunning town. Mainly due to the most awe inspiring roman aqueduct running from the walls about a kilometer off out of town. Absolutely amazing engineering. The only down side was the rain. First day of bad weather we have had and did it rain. Turns out the arches of roman aqueducts provide insufficient shelter in heavy downpours. We got a bit wet. But not before we had explored the town and seen the astounding cathedral and the Alcazar which is a real sleeping beauty castle with witches hat turrets. We headed back early due to the rain, which followed us back to Madrid. More early morning high speed train adventures the next day - on to Barcelona.

Granada and Cordoba

From Ronda we caught the train to Granada and spent the best part of three lovely days wandering through its old and new towns. Although a bit shabbier and more gritty than both Seville and Ronda, it grew on us after a while with its lively shopping areas and its great funky little bars which didn´t open until 10pm and went on until the wee hours. Found a brilliant tiny middle eastern tapas place serving a bottle of wine or jug of cold cerveza with a load of tapas for about 12 euros. You can tell it is a student town! We thought a similar concept would work really well in Fitzroy or Carlton. Spent about 7 hours wandering all over the Alhambra and were suitably impressed, awed and exhausted by it by the end! Stunning intricate decoration and simple elegance which we loved about Seville´s Alcazar. Caught a ridiculously early train to Cordoba and watched the sun rise from behind the Sierra Nevada.

Cordoba was hot 38 degrees both days. We had to retreat to the cool of the Mezquita almost as soon as we arrived. It is possibly the highlight of Moorish Spain for us - its age and the simply beauty of its hundreds of arches stretching off into infinity were spellbinding. Pity about the ridiculously over the top baroque Cathedral plonked right in the middle of this gracious building. The continuing attitude of the Catholic Church to it has to be read in their propoganda brochure to be believed. Cordoba itself was amazing with its winding narrow lanes and cool tiled patios filled with flowers and greenery around which old houses (and our hostal) were built. You could feel the cool air coming out from them as you wandered around during the heat of the day.

Caught the new high speed train to Madrid which took an hour and a half. The new high speed trains here are great. More from Madrid...

Magnificent Ronda

Well we wandered and wondered at this truly astonishing town, perched high up on a rocky outcrop with old and new towns connected by two stunning bridges across a 120m deep gorge. It was an independent islamic state which held out almost to the end of the reconquister thanks to its impregnable walls of rock. We were staying in a lovely hostal near the old walls. Everywhere you walk in Ronda there are old (11th c) islamic buildings, mosques converted to churches and stunning views of the mountains surrounding it. We spent Sunday walking an 8k circuit through the beautiful countryside nearby with astonishing views of the town on its cliffs. The holm oak and nut pine woods and the fields were dotted with lovely wildflowers. We went past a chapel carved into a cave in a cliff and down into a gorge where two rivers met. Then up long hot dusty white roads through barley and wheat fields back to Ronda for well earned icecreams! We then enjoyed a picnic in the gardens watching the sunset over the mountains. Monday was a last wander and an attempt to sketch the Puente Nueva (c1780) and then pack and catch the train to Granada.

Swimming in the Atlantic

We think it is the first time we have done that. beautiful beach on the Andalucian coast just near Cadiz. Found a great Hostal right on the beach and a room with views of the sea. Activities included swimming, walking, and watching the sun set into the sea while drinking Cerveza´s on the beach.

Day trip to Cadiz which is shabbier than Seville but has an amazing exposed location stuck out into the sea at the end of a long causeway. Great winding streets and sundrenched plaza´s filled with orange trees.

Now in Ronda after 6 hours on various Spanish buses. Great winding roads into the Sierra Grazelema with tiny white villages clustered on the hilltops - each and every one of which the bus seemed to have to visit and get stuck in doing a three point turn... Finally arrived to find amazing hilltop town and a cozy Hostal at the bottom of the old town. Off to explore....

Sevilla

Greetings from Seville. So we arrived last night to a balmy 26 degrees and blue sky. Headed to Tapas and Cervezas. Spent today meandering through tiny lanes and plazas covered with clever sunsails against the heat. It reminded us a bit of Venice (narrow winding streets opening onto tiny plazas) and Verona (marble pedestrianised streets). This afternoon went to the Alcazar which was amazing - moorish palace much added to over 1100 years. Truly astonishing architecture and intricate decoration. Nothing like we have ever seen before. Looking forward to exploring more of Moorish Spain. Highly recommend Seville. Tapas and Vino Tinto are excellent!